Porto is Portugal in miniature – a city of steep hills, painted tiles, port wine cellars, and a river that leads to the sea. The Douro River gleamed copper in the morning light as I walked along the Ribeira district, watching port wine boats bob gently at their moorings.

Livraria Lello stopped me in my tracks – this Gothic bookshop with its crimson staircase and stained glass ceiling has inspired countless literary pilgrimages. I emerged with two books I didn't need and a head full of imaginary stories triggered by those extraordinary surroundings.

Port wine tasting in Vila Nova de Gaia was essential – sampling tawny and ruby ports while the sun set over Porto's skyline, bridges illuminated one by one. The 6 Bridges Cruise showed me the city from a perspective I'd have missed otherwise, six engineering marvels spanning the river in harmonious competition.

Francesinha for lunch – a heart-attack-on-a-plate sandwich smothered in cheese and sauce – reminded me that Portuguese comfort food is a serious endeavor. Porto won my heart not for its famous landmarks but for the thousand small details that accumulate into a city worth loving.

– Carmel